YALLA VIBES

Kale for Dinner

Are you someone who doesn’t like kale? Well, you probably love kale if you’re reading this but i’m sure you know someone who says “ew” when it comes to the tasty green. Kale gets a bad rep because it’s hard to imagine eating something so stiff but this kale summer salad recipe will change someone’s mind about kale! This is a hearty salad with plenty of protein so it can stand alone as an entree or remove the sweet potatoes for a side salad.

In my mind, it takes a lot of effort to make dinner so I’m constantly mentally preparing for the next meaI. To make things easier, I like to double recipes so I have leftovers the following day. With this recipe, feel free to make it your own. It’s a good idea to get comfortable making recipes your own so you can improvise if you’re missing an ingredient, have an allergy, dislike an ingredient, etc. Below you’ll find an ingredient list and five steps to pulling off this deliciously healthy recipe.

Ingredients

Spinach (2 bags)
Kale (2 large bunches)
Sweet potatoes (3 potatoes sliced in 1/2 inch rounds with skins on)
Red onion (1 large thinly sliced)
Strawberries (2 cups sliced)
Blueberries (2 cups)
Toasted almond slices (2 cups)
Crumbled feta (2 cups)
Avocado (2 thin slices)
Olive oil (use your judgement, maybe 3/4 cup in total)
Salt
Smoked paprika
Garlic salt
Basil Dressing or Organic goddess basil dressing from Whole Food
Lemon (juice 1 lemon)
Fresh basil (2 cups)
Garlic (5 cloves)
Olive oil (1 cup)
Salt (to taste)

Step 1:
Prep the kale! First, wash all your kale. The leaves can be squished tightly together so open them up and wash out any dirt. Next you’ll need to de-rib the kale which means removing the tough stem running down the center of the leaves. Fold the kale over along the rib and cute the rib off with a sharp knife. You can also do this process using your hands if you’d like! For the final step, the key to delicious kale is to massage it with olive oil and salt (coarse kosher sea salt works great if you have it). Cut or tear your kale into fork sized pieces and place in a large bowl. Drizzle with olive oil and salt then get your hands in there and massage the kale. Continue tossing the kale until the leaves have been coated. Add spinach and set aside. The kale will soften as it sits.

Step 2:
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and prep the sweet potatoes! Wash the sweet potatoes and keep the skin on. Slice the potatoes into 1/2 inch rounds. Toss the sweet potato rounds in a drizzle of olive oil, smoked paprika, and garlic salt. Once the sweet potatoes are thoroughly coated on both sides, place them in a single layer on a non-stick baking sheet. Bake for 25 minutes flipping once. Set aside.

Step 3:
While the sweet potatoes cook, prep the additional ingredients. Thinly slice the strawberries and red onion. Heat a drizzle of olive oil in a skillet to toast the sliced almonds over medium heat. Continue tossing until toasted.

Step 4:
Make the Dressing! If you don’t have Whole Foods near you or if you like making your own dressing, make a basil dressing. In a food processor or blender, combine 5 cloves garlic, 1/2 cup lemon juice, 2 cups basil leave, 1 cup olive oil, and plenty of salt to taste. Blend until smooth. You can make this in advance and store in the fridge. The longer the dressing sits, the tastier it will be!

Step 5:
Assemble your salad! For the ultimate presentation, assemble each salad in individual bowls or on a large serving platter. Layer the ingredients in the order they’re listed above. Drizzle with dressing or let people add their own!

Bonza Byron Bay

Bonza, informal adjective, alternative spelling to ‘bonzer’

Means excellent, first-rate, brilliant

“Ya Sheila bonza mate, one-of-a-kind!”

Utopia discovered! And I’ll tell you why I feel comfortable sharing the paradise that is Byron Bay. It’s already been discovered, there are plenty of tourists already in the know, but the best part of Byron Bay is that aside from the chill vibe and natural beauty that makes it so popular, it’s easy to find the roads less travelled and explore what’s overlooked by most tourists. Even being such a popular destination for tourists, the locals are so kind and welcoming, you’ll wonder what’s in their water. My love affair with Byron Bay is that it truly has it all.

Highlight #1

Staying at The Box AirBnB and meeting our hosts Jimmy and Chelsea. The Box has bonza style, with the best wallpaper I’ve seen. A front yard to call your own, Tim Tams and milk in the fridge (ask Jimmy how to eat them properly), and the coolest neighbors/hosts in the hood. Don’t be afraid to get to know your hosts if you stay here – they love to get to know their guests!

Highlight #2

A foodie scene that will keep us reminiscing on bao buns, gin tonics, acai bowls, and farm to table cuisine for life.

Your stay in Byron won’t be complete without dinner at Light Years. I’d recommend going on your first night so you can squeeze it in again before you leave. We ate oysters, salt and pepper tofu, steamed eggplant bao buns, turmeric and coconut cauliflower curry and washed it down with a hard to find local IPA (IPAs aren’t really a thing in Oz… yet). Friendly service, cool vibes, and quality food all received 5 stars from me!

Another excellent dinner recommendation was St. Elmo for out of this world tapas and the best gin drinks around (made with locally distilled gin, to top it off). Reservations are helpful, especially on weekend nights at dinner time, but you could still get lucky as a last minute walk-in if you go at off-peak times. You can’t go wrong with what you order here but don’t skip out on the gambas al ajillo (prawns with smokey paprika and garlic flavor) or the calabaza (roasted pumpkin). St. Elmo’s was food perfection.

With a recommendation for something more casual, we ate at Miss Margarita for tacos and margaritas. The vibe was fun and everyone seemed to want to eat here (it’s centrally located on the main drag, so expect a wait if you go at peak-times). It was great for a casual night out that filled a Mexican food craving but we were a little disappointed in food quality after eating at such phenomenal restaurants the nights before, and being a bit spoiled with great Mexican food back home.

The General Store was a local gem and on the same block as our AirBnB. It was a perfect spot to grab and go before a day trip or to hang out on their crates and swings outside, soaking in a beautiful morning in Byron Bay. I’d recommend it for breakfast. Don’t miss out on the super greens or peanut butter cacao bowl or the breakfast burrito with sweet potato. My mouth is watering just thinking about it.

A note on coffee: Regardless of how you usually take your coffee, a Flat White or a Long Black should satisfy, and allow you to fit in seamlessly. If you typically drink loads of drip coffee to start your day, you’ll sometimes be able to find (surprisingly very good) batch brew, but don’t expect to get much – it costs about the same as an espresso-based drink, sometimes in a smaller mug, and you can forget the free refills. Also, ordering a batch brew will immediately peg you as a tourist.

Our last night, we made a tough decision about whether or not to go back to Light Years, but after hearing it described by our hosts, we knew we had to try The Roadhouse before we left. It’s off the beaten path so it really felt like a local go-to spot. We sat outside with a glass of shiraz, oysters and wood-fired pizza (their specialty), and enjoyed a super-chill, mellow end to our time in Byron. I feel like this restaurant did a pretty good job at summing up the overall Byron feel – very laid back, friendly, stylish, delicious, alfresco…just right.

If you’re looking for a quick lunch bite on the main drag (there are definitely some hit or miss spots) hit up Main Street Burger Bar. Holy yum. The jackfruit burger or bowl for vegetarians or anyone who loves good food was ah-mazing and filling. Great for a post-surf nom sesh.

A few other recommendations we received from locals but didn’t have time to eat at: Bay Leaf Café, Bang Bang, The Mez Club, Da Vino, and The Italian. Byron is a serious foodie paradise!!

Highlight #3

The Farm at Byron Bay – Grow, Feed, Educate, Give Back. A mission we could all learn from to make the world a better place. The Farm was my personal heaven, and lots of other people’s too looking at the full parking lot. We arrived early for breakfast on their deck, overlooking the farm animals, flowers, and a friendly rooster making his rounds. You could spend a whole day here taking a class, going on a horseback ride, or watching your kids play. We wandered at our leisure laughing at the piglets, observing the community of chickens, watching bakers bake bread, and gardeners tending to the greens. You don’t want to miss out on a visit to The Farm when you’re in Byron Bay – it’s a unique and special experience. Before leaving, we picked up a jar of dukkah (specialty spice blend) and a book on the farm community from their shop to keep the memory alive.

Highlight #4

The Shopping! A food and a fashion mecca? Dreams do come true. I haven’t even gotten to the beaches yet! Vogue has written several articles on where to shop here and you’ll need more than a day and a sizable budget to make it happen.

Drive 15 minutes outside of Byron Bay to the shops on or near Bangalow Rd (you’ll pass by a couple coffee plantations, if you have the time, schedule a tour). Don’t miss Hendrix and Harlow, The Pack Art Gallery, or The Bangalow Pharmacy. There are too many fabulous shops and restaurants to list, and they’re all off the beaten path so easy to miss. Don’t plan it all out, just head this direction and take your time looking for a lovely piece of art to bring home with you.
- After breakfast at the farm, head to The Art & Industry Estate. The is a creative hub for entrepreneurs of all kinds. It’s a bit confusing to navigate but try to find a map at one of the shops and consider it an adventure. Here are a few stops I’d recommend to get started:
- St. Agni – a locally owned women’s boutique that exudes luxury, quality, and simplicity. The shopkeeper helped me find a gorgeous clutch and pair of shoes and made sure to write down all her favorite restaurants in Byron before I left. Warm hospitality everywhere you go.
- McTavish Surfboards – locally made surfboards, men’s clothing, and a coffee shop. A great shop to pick up a genuine souvenir.
- Luscious Foods – while shopping around, stop at Luscious for a delicious middle eastern inspired lunch. We had the vegan, baba ghanoush pizza. I’d fly back to eat it again.
Downtown Byron Bay has plenty of shops to spend an afternoon popping in and out of. From touristy hat shops to high end boutiques like Spell.

Highlight #5

The beaches, the beaches, the beaches! Byron Bay is a beach-goer’s mecca. Pick up a surfboard and you’ll fit in just fine.

You can’t miss Byron Beach, it’s at the end of the main road in town and the place everyone will be. If you take a beginner’s surf lesson, they’ll likely take you to Clarke’s Beach, where the waves are good for first timers like me. If you’re looking to get a bit of exercise in to make you feel better about indulging in the food scene, do the lighthouse walk in the early morning and then stop at Wategos Beach. Given its location further from town, you’re able to avoid much of the crowds at Wategos or little Wategos. There’s an exclusive hotel, Rae’s on Wategos if you’re feeling fancy. Don’t be afraid to explore a bit to find parts of the beach that are less travelled. Tallows beach is another great option.

If you’re looking for the crown jewel beach, the secret gem of Byron Bay, check out Whites Beach. We would have never found it without an outgoing local mate in Sydney sharing his favorites with us. If it weren’t for a mate at a surf shop in Bondi, we would have never heard about it. It’s a 20-minute drive outside of town, in Broken Head Nature Reserve. There’s a strict limit on parking spaces (maybe 10) and you’ll go on a 10-minute hike down the hill to reach this truly secluded and pristine beach. Don’t forget your sunscreen and hat as there aren’t many options for shade… unless you hang out in the cave. We were there with a swimsuit model doing a photoshoot and a few local surfers. It was total serenity in paradise.

Off the Beaten Path In Australia

When traveling to a brand new, unfamiliar destination, we try to strike a balance between experiencing the iconic spots, with all of the tourists and selfie sticks that come with them, and finding destinations that haven’t yet been “discovered.” Understanding that a reliance on blogs and internet research to plan our travel will inherently identify “discovered” places, doing enough digging can usually uncover places that have a lot of potential but not a lot of coverage, and these are where we like to place our bets. It worked out tremendously when visiting Croatia, and we had another great experience getting off the beaten path in Hunter Valley. The NSW wine region is certainly on the map, and is a popular destination for coastal locals to escape to over a weekend, but it’s not overrun and genuinely felt like a local experience. It’s a place where you can visit the largest, most popular winery in the region and likely find a few more foreign tourists, or you can get further off the beaten path and end up being the only ones soaking in the views of an estate while learning about Australian wine history and wine making practices at a fantastic biodynamic winery. It is at these places where we not only learn the most, but we get to have the best organic conversations with people making the experience more memorable.

To kick off the trip, we picked up a rental car from the Sydney airport using Ace, which seems to be where Hertz sends its less desirable cars. We chose to get the cheapest car we could find since this wasn’t as big of a priority as a nice dinner or a boat trip splurge. As with most companies, we were charged a fee ($150) for dropping off the car in a new location which was Brisbane for us. We hopped in our beat-up Toyota and drove 2.5 hours out of Sydney to Hunter Valley, one of Australia’s many wine regions which specializes in Semillon and Shiraz grapes. Car Rental Tip: Take pictures of any damage you see on/in the car before leaving the rental office.

We had scoured the internet looking for the perfect place to stay in Hunter Valley. Initially searching for an AirBnB, we couldn’t find many places that excited us, especially for the price. There were a few vineyards that had 1-2 rooms available through AirBnB which we nearly booked until we discovered The Boathouses at Leaves and Fishes. Ahh, the Boathouses at Leaves and Fishes. It’s relaxing just to say it out loud. We ended up finding it through Agoda.com, and after reading the fine print over and over, decided that it looked lovely, was refundable if we changed our minds, cheaper than the boathouse website, and had great reviews – we were sold!

As we pulled into the long driveway to Leaves and Fishes, technically outside the town of Lovedale, we entered into a serene jungle oasis that seemed out of place for the Australian countryside, yet perfectly welcome. We drove through the shady trees, past the Balinese-inspired restaurant, past a beautiful fish pond, and pulled up to boathouse #2, our home for the next two nights. Upon opening the door, we entered a gorgeous open room full of natural light, big wooden furniture from India and Indonesia, and a rainfall shower head that poured into a large soaking tub with a tranquil backdrop of lush green plants. We threw down our bags, opened the double doors to our private deck overlooking a sea of bright green lily pads and immediately opened our complimentary bottle of sparkling wine. The sun was shining and ahh, we felt like we were on vacation. The boathouse were a true hidden gem!

There are many highly rated restaurants in the Hunter Valley, and we were lucky that one of those restaurants was on site. After a day of travel, we wanted to relax and not have to drive anywhere or make any decisions so we made a reservation for our first night at Leaves and Fishes. Upon walking into the beautifully decorated, dimly lit restaurant overlooking the water, we were greeted with friendly faces and what was proving to be excellent Aussie hospitality. Dinner started with a bottle of wine from the area, homemade toasted ciabatta with local olive oil, binnorie dairy feta, and house dukkah (the perfect blend of spices). I’d never had scallops served in their original shell and it was such a beautiful shell, the woman who waited on us volunteered to wash them off for me so I could take them home. It was a romantic, intimate, and delicious experience. I’d highly recommend making reservations and bringing me along.

Our only full day in Hunter Valley was the day to explore as many vineyards and wineries as possible, while remaining sober enough to drive to each one. Much love and appreciation for my driver and husband, Baxter. If you’d prefer to not worry about driving, there are several tour buses for hire that will take you around, however you might not get to choose all of the wineries you will visit; we enjoyed having the flexibility as we like to explore at our own pace and select the wineries for their views and ambiance as well as their selection of wine and positive online reviews, of course.

Here are the wineries we visited in December 2018:

Audrey Wilkinson – one of the oldest in Hunter Valley, beautiful 360 degree views of Hunter Valley, sophisticated ambiance, good wines, must pay for tasting ($5 AUD)

Krinklewood – A bit out of the way (but well worth the drive), charming setting with peaceful outdoor courtyard, excellent biodynamic wine and charcuterie boards, free tasting, our favorite of the 3 we visited

Macquariedale Organic Wines (Tasting Room) – Highlight was learning about organic wine and the Macquariedale family, must pay for tasting, delicious vegetarian friendly restaurant next door with lovely views

Others that were recommended to us but didn’t have a chance to visit (so much wine, so little time):

Usher Tinkler, in an old church

Brokenwood, a large and reputable wine maker in Australia

3 Days in Sydney

I’d never considered Australia a place I needed to visit. Westernized and English speaking? Sounds too much like the United States, no thanks! I’m always on the hunt for a “unique” cultural experience where I can step outside my comfort zone. My advice to someone like me? Check yourself before you say no to this bloody ripper destination.

After arriving in Los Angeles, we boarded a 15-hour flight to the Oz, Straya, Land Down Under, I mean Sydney, Australia. I was seriously dreading the long flight crammed into an economy seat. With my expectations at rock bottom, it wasn’t anything three movies, a few meals, a good neck pillow, and the excitement of vacation couldn’t handle. Shout out to a great aisle seat buddy who let us use the bathroom as needed.

We arrived, 18 hours ahead on the clock, and with cell service through Sprint, easily booked an Uber to our AirBnB. There are taxis and other car services such as Taxify which might be more affordable options, but we were told that Uber is the most common and reliable. If coming from the U.S., you’ll immediately notice the driver on the right side of the car and driving on the left side of the road. While English is the primary language, Aussie’s speak with a fast accent derived from their British ancestors and use a whole lot of slang. “How you going mate?” instead of “how are you” sounds like a foreign language.

December is the beginning of summer in Australia so we were expecting nothing but sunshine. I can’t tell you how many times I told myself, “if there’s one thing you can’t control, it’s the weather” to make myself feel better about the cloudy days and occasional bursts of rain we experienced in the first few days. Thanks Cyclone Owen!

We unloaded our bags at our AirBnB in the Pyrmont (pee-mont) neighborhood where we stayed with Sue and Gary, our first example of super friendly Aussies. Sue was a professional working in education and Gary designed one of the first slide boards used in the fitness industry. Gary gave us our first taste of vegemite (less is more), bought us a jar to go home with (it will be a nice talking piece if nothing else) and showed us how to feed the wild lorikeets that flew up to their balcony. Our hosts gave us excellent food recommendations like Pioik, an Egyptian bakery, and Social Brew (see below). Pyrmont was full of delicious and off the beaten path restaurants that we would have never tried if it weren’t for a local’s recommendations. Another favorite brekkie (breakfast) spot was Social Brew where we enjoyed flat whites and a massive mushroom and parmesan bruschetta with truffle oil, free range scrambled eggs, and crème fraiche for a whopping $22 AUD – worth every penny. Both Pioik and Social Brew were phenomenal, and earned spots on my exclusive list of best breakfasts of all time.

The first day in such a big city can paralyze you a bit with where to start. Based on the location of our AirBnB, we started our first day with an exploratory walk through Darling Harbor, Hyde Park, Surry Hills, and Darlinghurst. These neighborhoods are a lot closer than Google Maps makes them seem and are worth an afternoon stroll to get a feel for the city. We popped in and out of shops with unique goods that made me reimagine my entire wardrobe and home decor. Crown street in Surry Hills was filled with losts of great local boutiques.

For a break, we sat on the outdoor terrace at the modern and quirky Dolphin Hotel for a refreshing glass of Australian wine. In Australia, tipping is not very common at restaurants which means a couple things: multiple servers will stop at your table asking for your order and you might have to go to the counter to ask for service and to pay for your meal. This doesn’t hinder the experience at all and everyone is probably more friendly than other servers you’ve had actually working for obligatory tips! Snack tip: Stop in any convenience store for a junk food delight, Sweet Chili and Sour Cream chips or a pack of chocolate Tim Tams!

Next, we moseyed to Darlinghurst, specifically seeking out the Cacio e Pepe at the Buffalo Dining Club where they bring a wheel of mozzarella to your table to bathe your pasta in before serving it. This is what dreams are made of! I found the restaurant through some online research with Conde Naste Traveller.

On Day 2, we took time to learn about Australia’s history, an important element to of any of our travel experiences. In Australia, this means learning about the Aboriginal people. We went on The Rocks Dream Time Aboriginal Tour, led by Kerry, an Aboriginal women, who gave tourists a 1.5 hour glimpse of what life was like long before the British arrived in 1788. She shared some personal stories with us that felt like a true gift. We will never forget her authenticity and vulnerability during our time together. If you visit, don’t miss the opportunity to learn about the first people to inhabit Australia.

The Aboriginal tour ended near the Opera House and Harbour Bridge so we headed in the direction everyone was walking and soaked in the up close views of these world famous sites. For an even closer view of the Opera House, book a tour at a time when a performance isn’t going on so you’ll be able to see the main stage. If you’re feeling adventurous, book an experience climbing the Harbour Bridge.

Next, we took an Uber to Coogee beach for the famous Coogee to Bondi Beach walk. We stopped at the Coogee Pavillion, picking up a long black and smoothie to power the 2-hour walk along the coastline. The walk is gorgeous and gives you an opportunity for a little exercise – there are some light climbs up stairs in hillside. If it might rain, bring an umbrella or raincoat and if it’s sunny, throw your swimsuit on so you’re ready for a dip in the ocean or a pool you’ll see along the way. Camera, sunscreen, and comfortable shoes, too!

At night, our AirBnB hosts let us use their Opal card so we could take the train for cheaper transportation. Train tip: tap your opal card before getting on the train and right after getting off or they’ll charge you extra! We went to super hip Chin Chin for dinner with a friend and our only regret afterward was that we were too full and tired to make it to The Baxter Inn, recently listed top 50 best bars in the world! Sorry, Baxter. Next visit, perhaps?

On our last day, our priority was Bondi Beach! The neighborhood itself is all surfer vibes, chill, hip, the kind of place you want to move to right away. Baxter surprised me for my birthday with an AirBnB experience which you can find in the AirBnB app. Locals will offer unique services that help you explore a new place from a different perspective. He booked me a 3-hour shopping experience in Bondi Beach with a personal stylist. I have to admit, I was hesitant and shy about it at first because I’d never done anything like it before but Veronica and I were BFFs by the end of our time together. We went to shops I would have never found on my own and she helped me find a one of a kind, dark teal, velvet jumpsuit! It’s quite fabulous. This was a super fun way to meet a local and share something we both love.

After 3 hours of shopping, I was exhausted but the sun was finally shining and we went over to Bondi Beach to soak up the rays and watch the surfers, both veterans and first timers. This would be a great place to take a lesson! We also checked out the Instagram famous Icebergs where you can go for a dip in the pool or grab brunch upstairs with killer views.

If it weren’t for jet lag and a really big rainstorm, we might have made it out to Sefa Kitchen, a Middle Eastern restaurant for dinner but you can’t do it all while traveling and that’s OKAY (a mantra I’ve developed over years of practice)!

While packing up our bags, our AirBnb host Gary told us to come outside to the balcony so we could feed the lorikeets – those multicolored birds you think only exist in the rainforest – they were clearly used to being fed and ate banana right out of our hands! Gary knew just what to do to give us one more memorable moment before leaving Sydney.

We were off to rent a car from the airport and drive to Featherdale Wildlife Park to pet Koalas and Kangaroos! Featherdale would also be an easy day trip from Sydney.

Fast forward two weeks, we returned to Sydney for one final night before flying back to the states. We booked a luxurious night at The Old Clare Hotel, a historic former brewery and administrative building in the Chippendale neighborhood with oodles of character. No detail went untouched from divine bed linens to local bath products, a Nespresso machine, and plush bathrobes. We took a dip in the heated rooftop pool before getting ready for dinner at O Bar and Dining, a revolving restaurant on the 47^th floor with dreamy views of Sydney’s iconic Harbour Bridge and Opera House. O Bar was a fine dining splurge that made Christmas Eve away from family quite memorable. Quick tip: Be sure to request a table next to the windows. If you’re going to pay that much, you better be next to the windows!

Notable costs (as of Dec. 2018)

Exchange rate: $1 USD = $1.41 AUD
A glass of wine: $10-25 AUD
Flat White: $4 AUD
Entrée at breakfast: $15-25 AUD
Entrée at dinner: $20-40 AUD
AirBnB (private room near CBD): $90 AUD

Can I Crash With You? Why We Use AirBnB

Everyone has their own preferred style of travel – some like to simply sleep wherever their legs stop moving, and others take a much more luxurious approach. I like to think we are somewhere in the middle. We’re over the backpacker hostels, but far from having status at the Ritz. Throughout our travels, we’ve found one of the best options to come out of the sharing economy – perhaps the OG of the sharing economy – is AirBnB. It’s now our go-to for accommodation when we travel, and have recently dabbled in their “experiences”. We love everything about it – the diversity of options, the ease of booking, the user experience – but one thing that has truly made it stand apart from other options is our experiences with our hosts, and this could not have been more evident on our recent trip to Australia.

Not only did our hosts provide us with a clean, comfortable, stylish place to stay, but they added so much more to our experience getting to know them. We were introduced to local delicacies we certainly would have never tried, met the inventor of a piece of workout equipment we use every day, were shown how to feed the local wildlife we had thought were exotic and untouchable the day before, and shared a bottle of wine with an international DJ and art curator. We loved getting to know their stories, sharing our own, and getting a rich local’s perspective on the place we traveled thousands of miles to explore. I can confidently say we would not have enjoyed our trip as much as we did without their incredible hospitality and recommendations for places to explore. Recommendations aside – they were just really cool people to get to know! Do yourself a favor, and book an AirBnB on your next adventure.

You Are Where You Come From

اصلك فصلك

Feel Like a Local in Venice

Nothing beats strolling the romantic streets of Venice. Although far too many tourists, the city has an unbeatable ambiance for lovers and friends. Unless you can afford to stay where George and Amal Clooney stayed on their honeymoon, book an Airbnb for an affordable, local experience.

We arrived at the airport and headed toward the water taxis where we’d pre-booked tickets on Alilaguna, for 25 Euros each. Only having two nights to stay, we did our best to get off the beaten path, making Airbnb a great choice. While riding the water taxi, I texted our host, Ombra, and she gave us directions to meet at a wine bar a few minutes from her apartment. She apologized for being 30 seconds late and bought our wine at Algiubagio Bar where she knew the owners for the locals only price. She was running around all day planning her four-year-olds birthday party at a museum. I quickly wondered what life was like as a local having your home not only sinking but surrounded by thousands of tourists. We dragged our luggage over the cobblestone, trying to keep up with our host and arrived at a steep set of stairs next to a bakery (hello, heaven). We climbed 5 sets of narrow stairs jutting in every direction and arrived to a beautiful apartment overlooking the rooftops of Venice.

Our priorities over the next two days were croissants, gelato, and espressos while roaming narrow streets, gawking at canals, and making sure we ate at the most delicious restaurants for dinner. With only a couple days in Venice, we wanted to see and learn about the most famous attraction, Saint Mark’s Church (Basilica di San Marco). I’d recommend a tour to understand the intricate architecture and rich history of the church. Caution: Saint Mark’s square might be the selfie capital of the world. How many can you find?

A good way to wander Venice is through the dozens of Squares where you can find accordion players, window shopping, people watching, and did I mention wine? We meandered a little further than the average tourist to a square where we stopped at a tiny bar to order tapas and watch college students catch up with friends.

Onto the most important and delicious topic, food! Trying to have a local experience over two days is nearly impossible but here’s how we tried. Look for restaurants without pictures outside. Notice the direction all the tourists are walking and go the opposite way. When shopping, ask the person working where they would go for dinner. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and even if you are, ask anyway. Check Trip Advisor for people commenting on a local experience. To stay on budget, grab an espresso and croissant for breakfast, share a margherita pizza for lunch, and splurge on dinner. The best recommendations will come from your AirBnB hosts, the locals who have already volunteered to answer all your questions.

At the recommendation of our Airbnb host, we made reservations two days in advance at Osteria Alla Frasca. Our waiter also owned the restaurant and knew the chef of Frasca Food & Wine, an award-winning restaurant in Boulder, Colorado. It was amazing to see our home community (Denver, Colorado) come so close to a little restaurant across the globe.

We felt connected to Colorado again when we found a local entrepreneur’s craft beer shop. We asked the owner to recommend his favorite IPAs and chatted about the craft beer scene in Italy vs Colorado. The owner likes to add his international visitors to his facebook page and captioned our photo with “Happy to Be Hoppy.” We opened an IPA in the street and drank it on our way back to the AirBnB.

Despite the crowds, Venice is one of a kind and a can’t pass up destination. Grab your best friend or lover and visit this charming city before it’s too late!

Notable costs (as of Sept. 2017)

Exchange rate: 1.3 USD = 1 Euro
A glass of wine: 2 Euro
A croissant: 2 Euros
Espresso: 2 Euros
Date night dinner for 2: 65 euros
AirBnB: 60 Euros/night
Water Taxi (cheapest option): 25 Euros/person
Water Taxi (luxury option): 100 Euros/person

Off the Beaten Path in Croatia

Slow life down and take a trip to Istria, the northern region of Croatia. Here, you can avoid the crowds and get lost in a tiny village where you might just hear a local belting an opera song at midnight.

We made the choice to skip the Dalmatian coast, the most popular destination in Croatia. We did a lot of research on Istria versus the Dalmatian coast and fell in love with the way Istria was described; beautiful beaches, countryside, quaint towns with character and charm, and hardly any crowds. Ultimately, it came down to how much time we had for vacation (10 days) and our priorities of a less crowded experience that wouldn’t break the bank.

We opted to fly in and out of Venice, Italy to save some serious cash on a rental car. Rental companies will charge you upwards of $400 to pick up and drop off your rental car in two different countries. After a little research, we found that Venice was a quick three hour drive from our first stop, Rovinj (roveen), Croatia. We mutually agreed that upgrading our rental car to get the GPS was a smart decision as we planned to navigate multiple cities and three countries. My cell service (Sprint) actually worked overseas for a minimal cost but wasn’t reliable for the adventures we had in mind. The peace of mind was worth the extra $150. We also opted for a manual transmission to save some additional funds which was only an option thanks to my husband who knows how to drive one.

Our first stop in Rovinj was the Lone Hotel, an uber modern spot on the Adriatic Sea. The hotel’s vibe was retro meets contemporary where pop art greets you throughout. Every room has a balcony where we enjoyed wine and views of the sea (after we refused our first room for the view of the parking lot).

The weather forecast predicted rain while we were there so we took advantage of the sunny skies we had on arrival and headed to the hotel beach. Heads up: beaches in Croatia consist of pebbles, not soft sand. A lot of people wore water shoes, which looked awful, but saved the awkwardness of tip toeing on rough pebbles.

We used yelp and our expert googling skills to look up the best places to eat in Rovinj but I always like to ask the concierge for recommendations if it’s available. It’s important to ask the concierge the right questions, describing exactly what you’re looking for. If you don’t, they’ll regurgitate exactly what they told the person who came before you. After careful consideration, we decided on Kantinon, a place where fisherman used to meet up for a libation before returning home to their wives. How dreamy. Being our first night eating out, the words on the menu were unfamiliar and we relied on our very patient waiter for direction. We had the fish sampler which was full of salty treats and a particular specialty, salted cod. The cod was hard on the taste buds (think cat litter) but an adventure to try. We couldn’t get enough of the fresh bread and locally pressed olive oil. Croatia is olive oil heaven!

On Day two, we hopped in the car, turned on a local radio station and smiled from ear to ear on a laid back day trip to Pula where our agenda included cliff jumping and Roman ruins. The spot we found for cliff jumping felt like a place the locals would go to sun bathe and escape the crowds. The waves were too aggressive for my comfort level so we waited to see someone else jump in first before Baxter ninja chopped the water.

We stopped in a shop with clothes designed by locals and while paying for our goods, took the opportunity to ask the sales woman where she would go for dinner. This led us to a local Konoba (restaurant) for our first taste of truffle gnocchi. Holy moly, truffle in Istria is worth all the hype and every penny. Truffles have a unique flavor you can’t easily find in the U.S. Look for a guide to take you truffle hunting to watch dogs dig up the truffles in-person.

After a few days in Rovinj, we hopped in our Fiat 500 heading North. On our way, we stopped for a few hours in Groznjan, a cozy hilltop village where we popped in and out of tiny shops filled with local art and truffle oil. We took in the countryside views over espresso and dessert and got back on the road.

Next stop, Momjan (mome-yawn), Croatia! To be honest, this part of the trip was the highlight of our off the beaten path experience. After a run in with a police officer for poorly operating our manual Fiat, we pulled up to B&B Tinka We took a gamble on Momjan because the only thing it had was proximity to wineries. Given how hard it was to find our B&B, or any accommodation, we had to be the only tourists staying in the tiny town. This let us escape the crowds and wander around pretending to be locals. Tinka was a lovely woman who didn’t speak English so we used a lot of hand gestures and had some good laughs at ourselves. Tinka and her husband ran the B&B on the upper level, a delicious restaurant on the lower level, and had their own winery down the road leading to $2 bottles of wine with dinner ($2!) We purchased a bottle to take home to help us remember how special this town was to our trip.

We winery hopped stopping at Kabola first. As the only visitors, we had the beautiful hilltop estate to ourselves with a private wine guide. We decided we would learn how to say a few greetings or common phrases in each place we visited so we asked our wine guide how to say Cheers in Croatian and proceeded to say živjeli (gee-vee-lee) throughout the trip.

Our next winery stop was Kozlovic, where we sat with a group traveling from Austria. After several pours, we were great friends, sharing stories and learning about each other. We booked both tastings in advance to ensure that we’d be able to get the best experience at each winery.

Let’s Go, My Love

Good company in a journey makes the way seem shorter. — Izaak Walton